When in Rome..?
I neglected to check that the plane ride was only 1 hour long, which means, really I could have found a cheaper way to get my ass here by land. Alas, price of stupidity is mine for the taking. The airport in mthaha was larger than hoedspruit but there is no ATM. The same guy that opens the airplane door is also the baggage guy and is also the security guy. The van driver was pretty cool. He taught me some Xhosa words and how to properly shake hands. We went to get this local dish for lunch. I wrote down the name but will never remember it. People here speak the language that you think Africans speak - you know, the one with that funny click on the tongue. I saw huts. Finally. And people wearing tribal stuff. This, my friend, is indeed the heartland. Wild coast is called "Transkei" in xhosa. It is the kingdom of king Shaka, ruler of the great Zulu tribe. It is also the birthplace of many activists. Raw beauty describes the scenery here. Hilly, green, dotted with villages. Cows and goats are the local's traffic lights. People are nice and friendly. Although they do occasionally exploit the tourists in a non nagging way. I arrive at amapondo at last. Yes. A log awaited break from civilization. That idea shattered almost immediately as I set foot into the reception area. "we are having a 3 day marathon goa trance party to night. Please join us!!!" What? Come again? I shit u not. The whole lounge is decked out in that glowy neon herbal tie-dyed trance thing. Music blasting. The whole nine. A guy propped up a stall selling every imaginable herbal hallucinogenic from around the world. All for 50 Rand. On top of that, I'm bunked with 10 afrikaan college kids who were already messed up by 2pm. Awesome. What can u do? When in Rome, I thought. I picked out a nice apple green rastafari pants and got me a bag of some aloe leaf thing. Moved my hike to the following day just in case I don't recover. And crossing fingers big time. Hey, u only live once ya?